"The soul of a journey is liberty, perfect liberty, to think, feel, do just as one pleases." ~William Hazlitt
Out and About in Jogja: Sultan’s Palace, Shadow Puppets and Kopi Lowak
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Don’t be confused: Jogja is the local nickname for Yogyakarta. Java is the largest island of Indonesia which also includes Bali, New Guinea, Sumatra, and others.
My guide Yono picked me up on schedule to visit the palace, but once we were tooling down the street on his scooter, he said “Today is not music at the palace. Is puppet show. Not until 11:00.”
Uh oh. I didn’t really believe him, but I was down for whatever the day brought. Yono offered to take me for coffee, and I couldn’t say no to that. Oh, and his friend the puppet maker is next door to the coffee place.
Except for paying about $10 for a cup of the world’s most famous poop coffee, I managed to get a fascinating education without buying anything, so it was all good. And Yono eventually took me to the palace, too. The rest of the story is in the captions; click on any photo, or start with the first one and view the slide show.
Using a mallet and awl, an artist inscribes the Javanese shadow puppet (made of buffalo hide) with traditional symbols.
The symbols represent the elements, and the shape of the puppet represents nature (the full, bulbous bottom), heart (center segment) and wisdom (the head).
The finished puppets are painted and mounted on sticks made of horn for performance.
Do you know what this is? If you guessed “Civet poop containing coffee beans” you are correct.
This is a civet, or lowak, grumpy from his nap.
Civet-poop coffee is among the most expensive in the world. It’s called Kopi Lowak; you may have learned about it in the movie “Bucket List.” I tried it so you don’t have to. It’s kind of chocolatey, very deep and rich. You are welcome.
Finally at the Sultan’s Palace. The palace, like most buildings in Jogja, is largely open-air. Here are the bells and instruments.
My guide, Judith, had a very elegant way of shading herself with her fan in the sun.
The previous sultan. Judith said the decorations on his ears represent wisdom.
In the batik room, I learned that different patterns have very specific meanings. This design is only worn by servants who have served as wet nurses to the Royal Family.
The elaborate costume for boys’ circumcision day reminded me of Turkish customs.
There are more ceremonies for royal girls than I would have expected. This fabric is for a girl’s first menstruation ceremony. There are also special costumes for her transition from little girl to big girl, and for the seventh month of pregnancy.
Special weapons only carried by post-menopausal women. I guess you want them on your side?
Ceiling detail from one of the palace pavilions. That is 18 karat gold.
A palanquin that was formerly used to carry the royal family. Judith told me “One couple inside. 30 people to carry. Now we use car.”
Published by Lauren
I'm a nomadic freelance writer, out enjoying the world!
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